A broken pull cord can stop your mower cold, but replacing it is a straightforward repair you can manage yourself. Learning how to change a lawn mower pull cord is a fundamental skill that saves you time and money. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from diagnosis to the final pull, with clear, step-by-step instructions.
You do not need to be a mechanic. With basic tools and a bit of patience, you can have your mower running again in under an hour. Let’s get started.
How To Change A Lawn Mower Pull Cord
The core process of replacing a pull cord involves accessing the rewind starter assembly, removing the old cord, and installing the new one. While designs vary slightly between mower brands, the fundamental principles are the same. Always prioritize safety by disconnecting the spark plug before beginning any work.
Tools And Parts You Will Need
Gathering the right tools before you start makes the job smoother. You likely have most of these items in your garage already.
- A replacement pull cord (check your mower’s model number for the correct length and thickness)
- Socket set or wrenches (common sizes are 1/2″, 9/16″, and 5/8″)
- Screwdrivers (flat-head and Phillips-head)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Safety glasses
- A pair of sturdy work gloves
- A piece of wire or a strong zip tie
Safety First: Preparing Your Mower
Never skip the safety steps. A lawn mower blade can engage unexpectedly if the engine is turned, even by hand.
- Disconnect the spark plug wire. This is the most critical step to prevent accidental starting.
- Tip the mower on its side, ensuring the air filter and carburetor are facing upward to prevent oil and fuel leaks.
- Secure the blade. You can use a block of wood to jam it, or carefully wrap it with a thick rag if you need to handle it.
- Clear your work area of debris and have good lighting.
Locating Your Model Number
To purchase the correct replacement cord, you need your mower’s model number. This is usually found on a decal on the engine housing or the mower deck. Write this number down and take it to your local hardware store or use it to search online.
Step-By-Step Removal Of The Old Cord
Now, we’ll dismantle the starter assembly to access the broken cord.
Step 1: Removing The Starter Housing
The pull cord handle and rope are attached to a plastic or metal housing on top of the engine. This housing is held in place by several bolts. Use your socket set to remove these bolts. Sometimes they can be tight, so apply steady pressure. Keep track of all bolts and any spacers that may fall out.
Step 2: Releasing The Recoil Spring Tension
Inside the housing, the cord is wound around a pulley that is under tension from a recoil spring. This spring is what retracts the cord. You must release this tension safely. Hold the housing firmly with one hand. With your other hand, slowly let the pulley unwind until you feel all tension is gone. Do not let it spin freely, as this can damage the spring.
Step 3: Removing The Broken Cord
Once the spring is relaxed, you can remove the old cord. The knot at the pulley’s anchor point may be tucked into a notch. Use needle-nose pliers to pull the knot free. Feed the rest of the cord out through it’s exit hole in the housing. Inspect the pulley and spring for any signs of damage or wear while you have it apart.
Installing The New Pull Cord
This is the main part of the repair. Take your time to ensure the cord is routed correctly.
Step 4: Threading The New Cord
Feed one end of your new cord through the exit hole in the starter housing, from the inside out. Pull about six inches of cord through. Tie a secure, large knot at this end. A figure-eight knot or a double overhand knot works well. Test the knot to make sure it will not pull through the hole. This knot will sit on the outside of the housing.
Step 5: Winding The Recoil Spring And Pulley
This step requires care. You need to wind the pulley in the direction that tensions the recoil spring. This is usually clockwise. Turn the pulley by hand the number of rotations specified in your manual, or until you feel moderate resistance. For most mowers, 3-4 full turns is sufficient. Use a piece of wire or a zip tie to lock the pulley in place, preventing it from unwinding while you finish.
Step 6: Securing The Cord To The Pulley
With the pulley held under tension, feed the other end of the cord into the notch or anchor hole on the pulley. Tie another secure knot here. Trim any excess cord, leaving enough to tie onto the handle later. Double-check that the knot is tight and seated properly in it’s anchor point.
Step 7: Attaching The Pull Handle
Thread the free end of the cord through the hole in your pull handle. Tie a sturdy knot underneath the handle. A common slip knot works perfectly for this. Pull the knot tight against the handle. Trim any excess cord, leaving about a half-inch tail to prevent unravelling.
Reassembly And Final Testing
You’re almost done. Now it’s time to put everything back together and test your repair.
Step 8: Reinstalling The Starter Housing
Carefully remove the wire or zip tie that was holding the pulley. As you do this, the cord should smoothly retract into the housing. Guide the housing back onto the engine, aligning the bolt holes. Insert and tighten all bolts evenly. Do not over-tighten, especially on plastic housings, as you could crack it.
Step 9: The Final Check
Give the pull cord several slow, full pulls. It should extend smoothly and retract completely each time. Listen for any unusual grinding or catching noises. If the cord does not retract, the spring may not have been wound enough. If it retracts too forcefully, it may have been overwound. Finally, reconnect the spark plug wire.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Sometimes, things don’t go perfectly on the first try. Here are solutions to frequent problems.
- Cord Does Not Retract: The recoil spring likely lacks tension. You will need to disassemble the housing again and add 1-2 more winds to the pulley.
- Cord Retracts Too Fast or Jerkily: The spring may have too much tension or be damaged. Check for kinks or breaks in the spring coil.
- Cord Frays or Breaks Quickly: Check the exit hole in the housing for sharp edges. Smooth it with a file or sandpaper. Also, ensure you are using the correct thickness of cord.
- Pulley Does Not Catch: The internal pawls (little plastic or metal tabs) might be stuck or worn. A quick spray of lubricant can free them, but significant wear means replacing the whole starter assembly.
Preventative Maintenance Tips
A little care can extend the life of your new pull cord and the entire starter system.
- Always pull the cord straight out, not at an angle.
- Avoid yanking it violently; use a firm, steady motion.
- Periodically clean around the starter housing to prevent grass and dirt buildup.
- Lubricate the moving parts of the starter assembly with a light machine oil once a season.
- Store your mower in a dry place to prevent rust and cord degradation.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the average cost to replace a lawn mower pull cord?
Doing it yourself, a replacement cord typically costs between $5 and $15. If you take it to a small engine repair shop, labor can bring the total to $50 to $80.
Can I use any rope to fix a lawn mower pull cord?
No. You should use a dedicated lawn mower starter cord. It is designed to withstand UV exposure, repeated friction, and high tension. Regular rope will fray and break quickly.
How do I know if the recoil spring is broken?
If the pulley offers no resistance when you try to wind it, or if the cord will not retract at all even after a proper rewind, the recoil spring is likely broken or disconnected. This requires replacing the entire spring or starter assembly.
Why does my pull cord keep breaking?
Frequent breakage is often caused by a sharp or worn edge on the cord exit hole, an overwound spring creating excessive tension, or using an incorrect, low-quality cord. Inspect the housing and ensure you have the right parts.
Is it hard to change a pull start cord?
For most people, it is a moderately easy DIY repair. The steps are simple, but they require attention to detail, especially when handling the recoil spring. Following a clear guide like this one makes the process very manageable.