Learning how to change riding lawn mower tires is a essential skill for any homeowner. Replacing a flat or worn tire on your riding mower restores stability and safety for a smooth cut across your yard. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from gathering tools to the final test drive.
How To Change Riding Lawn Mower Tires
Changing a tire might seem daunting, but with the right preparation, it’s a manageable afternoon project. The core steps involve safely lifting the mower, removing the wheel, deflating and demounting the old tire, installing the new one, and remounting the wheel. Let’s start with what you’ll need before you begin.
Essential Tools And Supplies You Will Need
Having everything ready before you start will make the job go much smoother. You likely have most of these items in your garage already.
- Jack and jack stands or sturdy wooden blocks
- Lug wrench or correct size socket and ratchet
- Tire irons (at least two) or a dedicated tire changer
- Soapy water in a spray bottle
- New tire and/or tube (ensure correct size)
- Valve core tool (optional but helpful)
- Air compressor or a heavy-duty foot pump
- Work gloves and safety glasses
Safety Precautions Before You Start
Your safety is the most important part of this task. A riding mower is heavy, and tires are under pressure. Never skip these precautions.
- Park the mower on a flat, level, and hard surface.
- Engage the parking brake fully.
- Disconnect the spark plug wire to prevent accidental starting.
- Never work under a mower supported only by a jack; always use jack stands or solid blocks.
- Wear your safety glasses, especially when using tire irons or inflating.
Step-By-Step Guide To Removing The Wheel
With your tools gathered and safety steps followed, you can now begin the physical work. The first phase is getting the wheel off the mower.
Step 1: Loosen The Lug Nuts And Lift The Mower
Before you jack up the mower, break the torque on the lug nuts. They can be very tight. Use your lug wrench or socket to loosen each one just a little, but do not remove them yet. Then, carefully position your jack under the mower’s frame near the wheel you’re changing. Lift the mower until the tire clears the ground, and immediately place your jack stands or blocks under the frame for secure support.
Step 2: Remove The Wheel Assembly
Now you can fully unscrew and remove the lug nuts. Place them in a safe container so you don’t lose them. Pull the wheel straight off the axle. It might be stuck from rust or dirt; a gentle tap with a rubber mallet can help free it. Lay the wheel flat on your work surface with the valve stem facing up.
Step-By-Step Guide To Demounting The Old Tire
This is the most physically demanding part. Patience and the right technique are key to avoiding damage to the rim or injury to yourself.
Step 3: Deflate The Tire Completely
If the tire isn’t already flat, you must remove all air. Use a valve core tool to unscrew and remove the valve core; this lets the air out fastest. Press on the tire to expel any remaining air. For a tubed tire, you will need to remove the valve stem nut and push the stem into the tire.
Step 4: Break The Bead
The bead is the sealed edge of the tire that grips the rim. You need to break this seal all the way around on both sides. You can use a dedicated bead breaker, or carefully use your tire irons. Lay the wheel on the ground, stand on the tire near the rim to push the bead down, and work your tool between the tire and rim. Walk around the entire circumference until the bead is free from the rim’s ledge.
Step 5: Remove The Tire From The Rim
Flip the wheel over and break the bead on the second side. Once both beads are broken, you can begin prying the tire off. Lubricate the bead with your soapy water. Insert a tire iron under the bead, hook it on a spoke or the ground, and use a second tire iron to pry the next section of the tire up and over the rim. Work your way around until one side of the tire is completely off. Then, you can usually lift the rest of the tire and the tube (if present) out easily.
Step-By-Step Guide To Mounting The New Tire
Mounting the new tire is essentially the reverse of removal, but requires care to avoid pinching the tube or damaging the bead.
Step 6: Prepare The Rim And New Tire
Clean the rim of any rust, dirt, or old rubber. Inspect it for cracks or bends. Spray a generous amount of soapy water around the rim’s ledge and on the new tire’s bead. This lubrication is crucial for a smooth installation. If you’re using a tube, slightly inflate it just enough to give it shape, which helps prevent pinching.
Step 7: Seat The First Bead
Place the new tire on the rim at an angle. Start by working one side of the tire’s bead over the rim all the way around. You can often do this by hand, using your knees for leverage. For tighter tires, use a tire iron gently, being careful not to damage the bead. Ensure the bead is sitting in the deep center well of the rim all the way around; this gives you slack for the final bead.
Step 8: Install The Tube And Final Bead
If using a tube, insert it into the tire, aligning the valve stem with the hole in the rim. Push the stem through. Starting opposite the valve stem, begin working the second bead over the rim. Use your hands as far as possible. For the last, toughest section, use tire irons with caution. Lift the bead over the rim edge little by little, ensuring you are not pinching the tube between the iron and the rim.
Step-By-Step Guide To Inflating And Remounting
You’re in the home stretch. Proper inflation and reinstallation will ensure a balanced, secure wheel.
Step 9: Inflate The Tire Gradually
Before fully inflating, spray soapy water on the beads again. Install the valve core if you removed it. Inflate the tire slowly. You should hear two distinct “pops” as the beads seat against the rim. If the beads are not seating, slightly deflate the tire, adjust the position, and try again. Inflate to the PSI recommended on the tire’s sidewall.
Step 10: Remount The Wheel On The Mower
Lift the wheel back onto the axle, aligning the holes with the studs. You may need to wiggle it slightly. Hand-tighten all the lug nuts. Carefully lower the mower from the jack stands until the tire just touches the ground. Now, use your wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to ensure even pressure. Finally, lower the mower completely and give the lug nuts one final torque check.
Final Checks And Troubleshooting Tips
Don’t just put your tools away yet. A few final checks will confirm your success and prevent problems later.
- Reconnect the spark plug wire.
- Take a slow test drive in a clear area, listening for any unusual noises or feeling for wobbles.
- Check tire pressure again after 24 hours and after the first few mows.
- If the tire wobbles, the wheel may not be centered or the lug nuts may be uneven.
- If you have persistent air loss, the valve core might be loose or the bead may not be fully seated.
Frequently Asked Questions
How Do I Know What Size Tire To Buy For My Riding Mower?
The correct tire size is printed on the sidewall of your old tire. It will look something like “15×6.00-6” or “20×10.00-8.” The first number is the tire diameter, the second is the width, and the last is the rim diameter. Always match this exactly, or consult your mower’s manual.
Can I Patch A Riding Lawn Mower Tire Instead Of Replacing It?
Yes, tubeless tires can often be patched from the inside with a proper tire patch kit if the puncture is in the tread area. Tubes can be patched as well. However, large gashes, sidewall damage, or severely cracked and dry-rotted tires require full replacement for safety.
What Is The Easiest Way To Change A Lawn Mower Tire?
The easiest method is to take the entire wheel assembly to a local small engine shop or tire center. They have professional bead breakers and changers that can swap the tire in minutes for a small fee, saving you the physical effort and risk of damaging the rim.
How Tight Should The Lug Nuts Be On A Riding Mower?
Over-tightening can strip studs, while under-tightening can cause a wobbly, dangerous wheel. Consult your owner’s manual for the specific torque specification, usually between 30-50 ft-lbs. If you don’t have a torque wrench, tighten them firmly in a star pattern until snug, and check them again after a short period of use.