Learning how to winterize my riding lawn mower is a key task for any homeowner. Winterizing my riding mower ensures it remains in good condition during the off-season. This simple process prevents costly repairs and frustrating starting problems when spring arrives.
By following a clear checklist, you can protect your investment. This guide provides a step-by-step approach to get your machine ready for storage.
You will learn about fuel stabilization, oil changes, and battery care. Let’s get started.
How To Winterize My Riding Lawn Mower
A thorough winterization involves several key systems. You should adress the engine, fuel, battery, and physical components. Setting aside about an hour or two will save you significant time and money later.
Always refer to your owner’s manual for model-specific instructions. Safety first: ensure the engine is cool, the parking brake is engaged, and the spark plug wire is disconnected before beginning any work.
Gather Your Tools And Supplies
Before you start, collect everything you’ll need. This makes the job smoother and faster. You likely have many of these items already in your garage.
- Fuel stabilizer
- Fresh engine oil and a new oil filter
- Socket set, wrenches, and a screwdriver
- An oil drain pan
- A funnel
- A fresh air filter
- A battery tender or trickle charger
- Grease gun with appropriate grease
- Wire brush and rag
- Fuel syphon or turkey baster (for safe fuel removal)
Step 1: Clean The Mower Thoroughly
Begin by giving your mower a complete cleaning. Grass clippings, mud, and debris hold moisture. This moisture leads to rust and corrosion over the winter months.
Use a putty knife or brush to remove caked-on grass from the mower deck. Hose down the deck and the mower’s body, but avoid direct sprays on the engine air intake or exhaust. Allow the mower to dry completely before moving to the next steps. A clean machine is easier to work on and inspect for any issues.
Pay Special Attention To The Undercarriage
The underside of the mower deck is critical. Leftover wet grass will harden into a solid, concrete-like mass. This can unbalance the blade and promote rust.
Scrape it clean and consider a light coating of silicone spray on the deck to prevent rust. This simple step can extend the life of your deck significantly.
Step 2: Stabilize Or Drain The Fuel System
This is arguably the most important step. Old gasoline left in the system will break down and form gummy varnish and deposits. These clog the carburetor jets and fuel lines, leading to hard starting or a non-running engine in spring.
You have two main options: stabilization or draining.
Option A: Using A Fuel Stabilizer
This is the easier method for most people. Add a high-quality fuel stabilizer to the gas tank. Then, run the engine for 5-10 minutes to circulate the treated fuel throughout the entire system, including the carburetor.
- Fill the tank at least halfway with fresh gasoline to minimize air space and condensation.
- Add the correct amount of stabilizer as directed on the bottle.
- Replace the gas cap and run the engine as instructed.
- After running, turn the fuel valve to “off” if your mower has one.
Option B: Draining The Fuel System
For longer storage or if you suspect the gas is already old, draining is best. Siphon or pump the gasoline out of the tank into an approved container. Then, restart the engine and let it run until it stalls from fuel starvation. This empties the carburetor bowl.
Remember to dispose of old gasoline properly at a recycling center. Never pour it on the ground or down a drain.
Step 3: Change The Engine Oil And Filter
Never store an engine with dirty oil. Used oil contains contaminants and acids that can corrode internal engine parts during months of inactivity. Changing the oil is a clean slate for your engine.
- Run the engine for a few minutes to warm the oil, making it drain more completely.
- Place your drain pan under the oil drain plug. Remove the plug and let the oil drain fully.
- Replace the drain plug and, if your model has one, install a new oil filter.
- Refill with the type and amount of oil specified in your manual.
- Check for leaks after starting the engine briefly to circulate the new oil.
Step 4: Service The Air Filter And Spark Plug
A clean air filter and a good spark plug are essential for easy spring starting. These are inexpensive parts that make a big difference.
Remove the air filter. If it’s a paper filter, replace it. If it’s a foam filter, wash it in soapy water, let it dry, and then lightly coat it with fresh filter oil. Inspect the spark plug. If it’s worn, fouled, or the gap is incorrect, install a new one of the recommended type. Simply gap the new plug correctly and screw it in by hand before tightening with a wrench.
Step 5: Remove And Maintain The Battery
A dead battery is the most common springtime complaint. Cold temperatures can kill a neglected battery. The best practice is to remove the battery entirely.
- Disconnect the negative (black) cable first, then the positive (red) cable.
- Lift the battery out carefully.
- Clean the terminals and cable ends with a wire brush and a baking soda/water solution if corroded.
- Store the battery in a cool, dry place, off a concrete floor (a wood board is ideal).
- Connect it to a battery tender or trickle charger. This maintains a full charge without overcharging.
Step 6: Lubricate Moving Parts
Protect all pivot points and moving parts from seizing up. This ensures smooth operation next season.
- Grease all fittings (zerks) on the steering linkage, spindles, and deck pivots.
- Lubricate the clutch and brake pedal pivots with a light oil.
- Check the drive belt for cracks and wear. A worn belt should be replaced before storage so you’re ready to go.
Step 7: Prepare The Tires And Deck
Finally, take steps to preserve the mower’s structure. Inflate the tires to the recommended pressure to prevent flat spots from developing. Engage the parking brake and consider placing the mower on blocks to take weight off the tires if storing for a very long period.
Lower the mower deck to its lowest setting, or place a block of wood under it, to relieve tension on the deck springs. This prevents the springs from taking a set and losing their tension.
Step 8: Choose The Right Storage Location
Where you store the mower matters. An unheated shed or garage is fine, but try to avoid damp, leaky spaces. Cover the mower with a breathable fabric cover to keep dust off. Avoid plastic tarps, as they trap moisture and can promote rust and mold.
Make sure the storage area is clean and free from rodents, who might chew on wiring or make a nest in the engine compartment.
Common Winterization Mistakes To Avoid
Knowing what not to do is just as important. Here are frequent errors that can lead to problems.
Leaving Old Gasoline In The Tank
As mentioned, this is the number one cause of spring starting issues. Stale gas is a major problem. Always stabilize or drain.
Forgetting The Battery
Leaving the battery connected and unattended in a cold mower almost guarantees it will be dead. Remove and maintain it.
Skipping The Oil Change
Acidic, dirty oil sitting in your engine all winter can cause internal corrosion. Fresh oil is cheap insurance.
Storing With A Dirty Deck
A dirty, wet deck will rust from the inside out. Taking the time to clean it properly prevents expensive deck replacement.
Frequently Asked Questions
How Long Does It Take To Winterize A Riding Lawn Mower?
For a person familiar with the process, a thorough winterization takes about 60 to 90 minutes. If it’s your first time, allow up to two hours to complete all steps carefully without rushing.
Can I Just Use A Fuel Stabilizer And Be Done?
While fuel stabilization is crucial, it is only one part of the process. For complete protection, you should also change the oil, service the air filter, and maintain the battery. The stabilizer alone won’t prevent other issues from developing.
Is It Better To Drain The Gas Or Use Stabilizer?
Using a stabilizer with fresh gas is simpler and effective for typical seasonal storage (3-6 months). For storage longer than six months, or if you cannot get fresh ethanol-free gas, draining the system is the more reliable method to avoid fuel-related issues.
Should I Disconnect My Lawn Mower Battery For Winter?
Yes, you should always disconnect the battery. For ideal care, you should remove it from the mower, clean the terminals, and store it on a maintainer in a cool, dry location. This maximizes battery life.
Do I Need To Change The Oil Before Storing My Mower?
Yes, you should change the oil before storage. Running the engine circulates the clean oil, coating internal parts and protecting them from corrosion and moisture during the off-season. Starting spring with fresh oil is also a good practice.